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THE OUTLAW
TRAIL was named after those who used it ... those who were known as outlaws ...
those who were branded with such names as "The Wild Bunch" and "The Hole in the Wall Gang". The trail ran from Canada to Mexico
with three major hideouts and countless others along its path.
"Hole in the Wall" was the most famous of the three major hideouts and is still located in a
remote valley near Kaycee, Wyoming. "Brown's Hole" was the one most used by cattle
rustlers with Cassidy's headquarters at Power Springs. It is still prime ranch land in the northwest corner of
Colorado. But the most isolated of the
three hideouts was "Robbers Roost" located about thirty miles south of Green River, Utah. Other hideouts include Hideaway Coulee in Montana and the WS Ranch in Alma, New Mexico where Cassidy often worked under the alias of Jim Lowe while waiting for the trail to cool off.
The first
outlaws to use the outlaw trail were rustlers.
Most of them started their careers by working for cattle barons. They stole a few unbranded calves and hid
them within the barriers of the hideouts.
When the calves matured, they ran them up or down the Outlaw Trail to
Canada or Mexico. After one cowboy got
away with it, others joined in until they actually became a threat to the
cattle barons. One dead cowboy lead to
another and isolated squabbles eventually became more like a war.
Then came
the real outlaws, the train robbers, like Butch Cassidy, Sundance Kid, Kid
Curry, Big Nose George, Elzy Lay, Gunplay Maxwell, Peep O'Day, Silver Tip,
Indian Ed, and many, many more. They
became the subjects of hundreds of books, articles, movies, and plays about
"The Wild Bunch". So much was
written, so little was known ... no one knows which was fact and which was
fiction.
In 1987,
Larry Heck with his club called Pass Patrol began seeking out points of interest along the Outlaw Trail
and mapping backcountry roads connecting those points of
interest. They visited all three of
the major hideouts numerous times and traveled across much of the same
land where outlaws once roamed and ruled.
In essence, they repeatedly traveled the Outlaw Trail.
Pass
Patrol’s search began in 1987 during a visit to a library in Salt Lake
City. Larry Heck came across a book titled;
"Some Dreams Die". It referred
to an outlaw cabin on a mesa-top within the boundaries of the San Rafael Swell,
but at the time of print, the author did not know exactly where the cabin
was. Other club members found two more books which
repeated rumors that such a cabin did exist.
During the winter of 1987, they spent many long hours exploring the San Rafael Swell
and looking for those cabins with no success.
One day, Larry Heck
mailed a letter to George A Thompson, the author of Some
Dreams Die, requesting information. A few days later, George contacted "South
Paw", a member of Pass Patrol in Ogden, Utah. George visited South Paw with maps in hand
and showed him the approximate location of where the cabins were located.
When George
left his house, South Paw raced to the phone.
"I know where it is!"
His voice was singing with excitement.
"You're
kidding!" Larry could not believe
it! A century old outlaw cabin still
undisturbed and in its natural setting!
Pass Patrol could not wait for summer. On
a cold day in March of 1988, they assembled a four-vehicle patrol in Castledale,
Utah and followed George’s directions into Coal Wash.
The route
took them past the ZCMI Mine, Slipper Arch, and a landmark called “Joe and his
dog”. By the time they reached the end of
Coal Wash, most of the daylight was gone.
They stopped at the beginning of a narrow ledge trail going over a pass
into Saddlehorse Canyon. A recent flood
had washed most of the ledge away and the rest of it was littered with huge
boulders.
South Paw
took one look at it and decided it was time to go home. “Can’t get to those cabins this way,” he
remarked.
“It can be
fixed,” Lone Ranger assured him. “A few
rocks here and a few shovels of dirt over there and we can get through.”
“We’ve fixed
worse ones than this,” Outlaw said with a grin.
“We’ll fix
it,” Tinman chuckled. “Fixit Pass!” With that remark, Tinman put a stamp into history. The name Fixit Pass stuck and through years of Larry Heck using that name to describe the pass in magazine stories, guide books, and newsletters, it stuck so well that even the BLM uses that name to describe the pass on their current maps.
When morning
came, they moved a few rocks and some dirt to make Fixit Pass negotiable. Before noon, they were in Saddlehorse Canyon
driving in the wash along the base of Sid’s Mountain. (That road has been closed by the BLM and can no longer be driven in a motorized vehicle.) The road wandered in and out of that wash
snaking its way between two vertical walls.
During heavy rains, water rushes down those walls and into the
wash. If enough water reaches the wash,
it can form a wall of water roaring down Saddlehorse Canyon and emptying into
the San Rafael River.
About half
way between Fixit Pass and the San Rafael River, the road ended on a sand bar at
the mouth of a side canyon. George had
told them to camp on that Sand Bar and get ready for a long and grueling hike to
the top of Sid’s Mountain. He didn’t
tell them the side canyon would split in several directions forming several other
washes.
They explored
three such washes before locating the one George told them about. In that particular wash, enough of the
mountain wall had crumbled to permit hiking to within twenty feet of the first
level. At that point, a split in the
wall provided handholds to climb the rest.
Getting onto
that first level was key to reaching the other levels, and eventually the
top. The second level includes scaling
steep walls to reach the mesa top of Sid’s Mountain, but nothing as technical
as that twenty-foot wall between the first and second levels. The mesa at
the top of Sid’s Mountain is enormous and covered with trees and huge rock
formations. They fanned out and started
looking for a trail leading to the cabins.
Darkness was moving in fast and a strong wind began blowing from the
west. They were not prepared to handle
either one, but they were too excited to give up.
They continued searching for the cabins, while the biting wind warned of a fierce weather front coming their way.
"It's
getting dark, South Paw," Outlaw yelled over the howl of the wind. "If we don't find this place soon, we're
gonna hafta give up!"
"Over
here," he called. "It's an old
horse trail. It's gotta be the trail to
the cabin!"
They were
nearly running, partly from the excitement of the hunt and partly to keep
warm. The trail led them through an old
gate and headed directly for a clump of trees.
Then they saw the cabin on stilts ... standing tall and proud as it had
done for decades. "Wow!" They ran
around it taking pictures and admiring the relic for its qualities. The glass was still in the window and it
provided their imaginations with plenty of room to wander.
Beside the
standing cabin, is an older cabin that has given in to Mother Nature's
relentless efforts to disintegrate it.
If this really was an Outlaw hideout, the older cabin would have been
the one standing at that time. The newer
cabin was not old enough to have seen Butch Cassidy or Sundance
Kid.
A strong
gust of wind blew Outlaw's hat away and sent a chill up his back. "We better git," he suggested. With that thought, the group hurried away,
continually turning back for one last glimpse as they went. By morning, the ground would be white with
snow.
In all
fairness, we must admit to the sceptics, "We can not prove this was an outlaw hideout." On the other hand, no one can prove it was
not. Very little about the outlaws can
be proven. After all, they were outlaws,
and their profession forced them to keep secrets. They did not write a monthly newsletter about
their escapades.
Pass
Patrol's conclusion about the hideout takes a few facts and makes lots of
assumptions. We are sure others can take
another set of facts and draw opposite conclusions but neither side can prove
anything. That means, the truth is
whatever you decide to believe.
Fact: This
location is in the middle of the Wild Bunch stomping grounds.
Fact: It is
a perfect hideout. Unless you know where
it is, you will never find it. In fact,
unless you know how to get to it, you may never find the way up even if you know it's there.
Fact: There
is plenty of water, grass, and wild game on the mesa to support horses and
outlaws.
Fact: It is
very close to the get-a-way route used by Butch Cassidy after the Castlegate
Holdup in 1897. It would have been a
great place to prepare for the heist and the get-a-way.
Sid’s
Mountain is a huge mesa, relatively flat on top and dropping off sharply on all
sides. The sides are vertical, more than 500 feet high in places with very few access points. The path George mapped out for Pass Patrol was the
most direct route to the cabins, but not the one used by horses or cattle. He had not been up the mountain on the horse
trail. Both trails were included in a book called, In Search of the Outlaw Trail. That book is no longer being sold by Larry E Heck.
The route to
the cabins is very strenuous. Add that to the fact that you can no longer drive within a day's hike of the cabins, it becomes a backpacking trip and is not for the timid or for anyone with physical impairments. Only those who are extremely healthy and are already accomplished at
backpacking in the desert should attempt to get to the top of Sid’s Mountain by
way of Saddlehorse Canyon.
On the other
hand, there is the horse trail. Due to recent road closures, that one is also an overnight backpacking trip. It is a steep and strenuous hike that will take
the average person two days to complete.
If you have access to a horse that has been trained to handle canyon trails, you can still make the journey in a day, but even on horseback, it is no walk in the park. Horses hoofs slip on the steep rocks causing
them to skin up their legs during the climb. This is the wrong trail for the wrong horse at the wrong time.
Once on top
the mesa, the trail levels out. At one
point it crosses a narrow ridge that drops off on both sides to the canyons
below. Modern day cowboys have a fence
at that location made from logs. That
single gate closes off all of Sid’s Mountain to horses.
Think how easy it would have been for the outlaws to defend. If you go in that way, be prepared with lots
of water. The method Outlaw uses is to freeze
water in plastic Pepsi bottles. The ice
melts during the day providing a continuous supply of cold
drinking water. Four 1-liter bottles will last Outlaw one day. Your requirements may differ. If you have a water purifier, there is water near the cabin. Pass Patrol has not tested it but the horses seem to thrive on it.
Pass Patrol's first
trip in March of 1988 was successful. They
had found the cabin, but the journey was far from over. They still had to get off Sid’s Mountain and
back to the vehicles. In the excitement,
they had done a poor job of marking the access route. The mountain is huge and there was only one
point where they could get down the cliff and reach the vehicles by dark. Several times, they came to the edge of the cliff, looking down at the second level with no access in sight.
The wind
grew colder by the minute with howling gusts exceeding sixty-mph. Even standing side by side, it was necessary
to shout in order to be heard.
They split up
to cover more ground. Tinman was the first to locate the departure route. They hurried
down the mountain and reached the lower level. Total darkness had already consumed the canyon floor. They
had reached the vehicles in time for a cold dinner. It was impossible to cook in the wind.
When morning
came, snow moved in. Pass Patrol had to get out
of Saddlehorse Canyon quickly or risk being snowed in for days. Outlaw checked his maps and found a road going
out by way of Cane Wash. That route turned out to
be much easier than Fixit Pass. About four hours later, they found their way to the Buckhorn Wash Road near the San Rafael Bridge.
That trip
was the beginning of Pass Patrol’s search for the Outlaw Trail. Every year, more information is uncovered
leading to new places. Our original book, In Search of the Outlaw Trail is no longer available on this website. A recent series written by Larry E Heck appeared in Off Road Magazine. You can find those stories on their web site beginning with the first one at
http://www.off-roadweb.com/adventures/0609or_outlaw_trail/
It has been a long time since that first trek in 1987. Larry E Heck and his friends can still be found chasing the ghosts of the Wild Bunch. We hope to see you there.
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