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To get from Escalante to the east side of the Colorado River,
members of the San Juan Mission lowered their wagons down Hole in the Rock and
floated them across on a raft. Doing
that today would cause a fella more problems than setting off a fireworks
display inside the tent.
The way we get to the other side these days is to drive up to
Boulder and take the Burr Trail across Capitol Reef National Park. Along the way, we often camp at the UFO
landing site. We know its a UFO landing
site because the sign says so. It is painted on the belly of a small plane
that is nose dived into the sand.
Sundance, Sunshine, and I first happened onto it late one
night in the spring of 1994. It was the
end of the day when I suddenly put on my turn signal and turned onto a dirt
path heading west.
“Where you going?” Sunshine called on the C.B. radio. The sun had gone down hours ago.
“Camping,” I answered.
One thing about the Wild, Wild, West.
Anytime you get tired of driving, all you have to do is get off the
pavement on some dirt track across public land and you’ll find a campsite.
I reached an intersection in the path and slammed on the
binders. I couldn’t believe what I was
looking at. I keyed the mic. “Boulder Airport and UFO Landing Site!”
“What did you say?” Sundance called. He was still parked at the point where I
turned off the highway.
“I said we’re gonna become an X-file tonight.”
The sign was made from the body of a light plane. The words were written on the bottom of what
used to be that plane. The front end of
the plane was buried in sand up to its wings as if it had nose-dived into that
position and never moved. The wings and
wheels were gone and there was nothing inside.
I suppose the little green men took the pilot for experimental testing.
A short distance south of the sign was a BLM trailhead for a
hiking trail across the original Boulder Mail Route. There were about a dozen fire rings at that
trailhead where others had spent the night, probably waiting for the UFOs to
return.
“Look!” Sunshine called.
“I saw a colored light flickering over the desert to the north!”
“Sure you did,” I answered.
“Let’s set up the tents.”
“There’s another one!”
The three of us stood beside our vehicles and watched as
flickering lights sporadically appeared and disappeared over the desert about a
mile north of us. About once every three
minutes, another flickering light that lasted only a couple seconds, appeared
in the distance, then it was gone. That
continued for about fifteen minutes.
“What was it?” Sunshine asked.
“Probably headlights of cars reflecting off something from
somewhere.”
“Right,” Sundance remarked.
“We were on that road for an hour and haven’t seen a single
vehicle. Now you think there’s one going
by every three minutes ... and they have colored headlights”
“Could be an interesting night,” I said with a cynical grin.
You can find the UFO Landing Site on your USGS 1:100,000
scale metric topographic map of Escalante, Utah. Look for the landing strip southeast of
Boulder Town off Highway 12 at the intersection for Hell’s Backbone.
UFO’s or not, a lot of stories came to life during the many
times we camped at that site.
On one trip, Sunshine brought along a new gadget that was
supposed to make perfect biscuits. Well,
I gotta admit, they looked okay on the top.
Problem was, the bottoms didn’t come out too good. We used them to pound tent stakes in the
ground.
As the story goes, the infamous Ranger Rick, the fella who is
always about a day too late to catch us, was out there the next day and found
one of the biscuits. He bit into it and
had to have several hundred dollars of dental work done. That’s why he’s so mad at us.
Another story is that the Alien Brat keeps coming in while
we’re asleep and throwing our chairs into the campfire. That was the only reason we could think of
when we got up one morning and found the charred remains of what used to be my
chair.
Another story is that Sundance was abducted and that the
Alien Brat is actually his illegitimate son.
Alien Brat pops up in about as many of our campfire tales as Ranger
Rick. If fact, according to several
stories, Alien Brat has swooped down in his spaceship and rescued Outlaw and
Sundance on rare occasions where Ranger Rick had them cornered.
The UFO landing site is a short distance south of Boulder and
makes an excellent “up-and-at’um”, “giddy-up-go”, starting point for the trip
across the Burr Trail. The first time we
went across the Burr Trail it was an unpaved gravel road. In 1994, the county decided to pave it and
suddenly found themselves as busy as a fella draining a swamp full of
alligators. Them alligators came at them
from every direction armed to the teeth with lawyers, protestors, and anybody
else who didn’t have anything better to do than fight the idea of paving a
graded gravel road. Somehow, that was
supposed to have some kind of lasting environmental impact of destroying the
area’s primitive nature. I guess some
folks who grow up in a city think a graded gravel road is primitive.
Well, those county fellas are used to negotiating with
alligators so they only paved part of it.
The Burr Trail is a little more than sixty miles long and was
originally laid out by a rancher named Johnomtlantic Burr. He needed the trail to get sheep across
country and cut the switchbacks in the Waterpocket Fold. During the Uranium boom, miners widened the
road to get vehicles through. Today,
those switchbacks are within Capitol Reef.
There are numerous side-trips off the Burr Trail. We have traveled all the ones on the south
side looking for an access road to the Hole in the Rock road. There aren’t any.
We found a lot of scenic country and even a petrified forest
during our travels, but there are no open roads across the Escalante
River.
We have not explored many of the roads on the north side of
the Burr Trail, however, there is one short one that draws us in nearly every
year. It is within the boundaries of
Capitol Reef National Park and contains fabulous double arches. It’s on the same map as the UFO Landing Site
and is designated by a dotted line. Look
in the upper right hand corner of the map where Capitol Reef National Park is
written. Look just above the work
“National” and you’ll see it winding through Muley Twist Canyon off the Burr
Trail just west of the Burr Trail Switchbacks.
The last time I was in Muley Twist, it was rocky and very
narrow in places. At the end of the road
is a short hiking trail that overlooks Oyster Shell Reef. That point is also a trailhead for
backpackers going north. A few months
ago, I was parked at that trailhead having lunch when a backpacker came walking
up the road. He asked if I knew where
the double arches were and I told him he walked right by them. I gave him a ride back to the arches on my
way out.
The road from Burr Trail Switchbacks to Bullfrog can be found
on the 1:100,000 map for Hite Crossing.
It is true that nothing in this story requires 4WD, but I figured a nice
scenic trail for our more timid readers would be a good follow-up to last
months axle crusher. Be sure to carry
lots of food and water with you if you go.
Sixty miles is a long way to walk and there’s not a lot of traffic on
the road. Cellular service is available
most of the way if you have a full 3 watt phone.
Happy Trails!
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