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Pass Patrol’s first visit to Holy Cross City was in
1987. There were four vehicles on that
trip. One lost a muffler and another
suffered a dented rocker panel. We
didn’t make it all the way to the ghost town because of a huge mud bog on the
west side of French Creek. That bog was
no place for stock vehicles.
In those days, getting to the mud bog was just as difficult
as it is now, but it was the bog that got most of the attention. There was no way around it although lots of
people tried. It was those attempts to
get around the bog that nearly caused us to lose the Holy Cross City Trail
forever.
The bog was no wider than a three-lane highway, but was
nearly twice that long from end to end.
Except for a few thinner areas, most of the mud was about the
consistency of an extra thick chocolate shake.
It was also that same color.
Those who chose to enter it, did so knowing they would never get all
that mud out of their vehicle’s private parts for so long as they should live. In other words, to venture forward simply
meant the driver didn’t really care about the appearance of the vehicle.
Very few vehicles made it through on the first try. Open Jeeps found themselves stuck in the goo
deep enough to cover the brake pedal inside the vehicle. After a few revolutions of the wheels,
drivers and anyone else foolish enough to stand within throwing distance were
all the same color as the bog.
An anchor had been permanently mounted in a nearby boulder so
the vehicle would have something solid enough to winch to. That anchor is all that’s left of the once
famous Holy Cross Mud Bog.
The Forest Service decided the area was causing too much
damage to the environment and notified the 4x4 clubs that the Holy Cross City
Trail was being closed. Actually the
damage was being caused by those who tried to get around the bog and ripped up
the forest on both sides of it in the process.
After a year of negotiations, a compromise was reached. The 4X4 clubs would build a road across the
bog and the trail would remain open. On
Saturday, September 24, 1988, under the supervision of the Forest Service,
dozens of vehicles filled with people drove to the mud bog and repaired
it. A sign at the bog recognizes those
who contributed time, money, and materials to get the job done.
Although the mud bog is no more, the Holy Cross City Trail
has retained its reputation as the second most difficult established trail in
Colorado. There is good reason why. Getting through the four miles of naturally
seeded mine fields between the county road and the ghost town is nearly
impossible to do in a stock vehicle without some damage. Dented and scratched rocker panels are the most
common. Bent tie rods, sway bars, and
stabilizers run a close second and it is likely the vehicle will need to be
winched at least once.
I was alone on my return visit in September of 1997, but I
had lots of company. If you didn’t
understand that sentence, read it again.
It’s really quite simple. All of
my Pass Patrol members decided not to go.
I never knew so many of them had dogs that needed a bath on some
Saturdays. On the other hand, there were
at least thirty other vehicles on the trail and I’m happy to say I only had to
winch four of them.
I camped near the beginning of the trail on Friday night and
got a 7am start Saturday morning. I
don’t normally like to roll out of the sack that early, but I was going to be
doing a lot of filming for my upcoming book and video which meant long stops
and delays. Knowing that most 4wheelers
don’t finish the morning campfire tales until about 9am, I guessed I had a two
hour head start.
My plan worked very well.
The crowd didn’t catch me until I high centered ole Trigger on a rock
the size of a Volkswagen Bug on the west bank of French Creek. Actually, I didn’t get high centered until
the first group caught up to me. I had
already been there about a half hour taking video from different angles and
trying different approaches to the rock.
Then I noticed some vehicles coming up the trail behind and decided I
better get out of the way. I jumped into
ole Trigger, rolled forward about six inches, slipped sideways about a foot and
came to a sudden stop. I had done went
an embarrassed myself in front of six vehicles full of finger-pointing,
grinning and giggling folks. I tied the
cable of my Warn 8,000 winch to a nearby tree, pulled myself out, and went off
to wallow in the shame of what I had done.
Well, at least this time nobody was taking pictures of it. The last time I shamed myself like that, the
whole incident appeared on the 6 o’clock news.
Just thinking about how that happened got me laughing out-loud and
caused me to forget all about those folks back at French Creek wondering what
that idiot in the Trooper thought was so funny.
It was on that trip in 1988.
A local TV station was doing a news story about the repairs we were
doing to the bog. I had done so well
getting my new Bronco up the trail, the cameraman asked me if I ever did any
commercials for Ford. Then we got to
French Creek and he was filming my approach to the big rock. The rock was all wet from dozens of vehicles
ahead of me that had crossed the creek and splattered water everywhere. I planted a big ole BFG tire right on top of
that wet rock when a spotter said, “You need to be left a few inches.” I did as he said and slipped off the rock
like a dog on a water slide. Right in
front of the camera. “Back up a little,”
the spotter said. I put it in reverse
and pressed on the gas. The truck didn’t
move but that left front 31x10.50 BFG reached down, grabbed all that water them
other vehicles had left behind, and completely covered the cameraman and his
expensive mega-thousand dollar camera.
“You’re stuck,” the spotter said.
“No kiddin’, Sherlock!”
I never did find out who that spotter was but he sure was having a good
laugh as he wandered off to his truck.
The next day, everybody in Colorado watched me embarrass myself on the
six o’clock news. Somehow the part about
the cameraman getting wet never made it to the screen.
On my trip this year, I was the second vehicle to reach the
ghost town. The others were still trying
to get across French Creek. I pulled out
my stove and began cooking up a chopped steak lunch when I heard thunder over
the mountain. Before that steak was
burned the way I like it, rain drops were falling on my head. By the time I finished that steak, the only
thing still dry in Holy Cross City was the rain coat buried somewhere in the
back of my truck.
I tossed the stove in the truck and headed for French
Creek. When I got there, I could see it
was gonna be a long afternoon.
There were four different groups with more than twenty
vehicles waiting to cross the creek. The
one in the front was high centered on the same rock I had been on just an hour
earlier. Rain was coming down in buckets
and there were about a dozen water-logged people pushing, pulling, and tugging
on that vehicle trying to get it off the rock.
They sure were happy to see the big red Warn sticker on the front of my
bumper. I backed ole Trigger off to the
side and went to work.
The first group consisted of four vehicles. I winched three of them. The fourth one just backed up and hit the
rock with brute force. He bounced over
it but with all the banging and clanging that occurred, I wouldn’t give him ten
cents for the truck.
After that first group, the other groups headed in. Most of them had lockers and lift kits which
enabled them to get through with little effort.
I only had to winch one. By that
time, the folks who had followed me to the ghost town earlier were on their way
down so I let all of them around me before going across the creek.
The rain stopped about the time I crossed French Creek but by
that time, every rock on the trail was as slippery as ... well ... let’s just
say they were slippery. The trip down
was done very cautiously.
The history of Holy Cross City dates back to the 1880s. It was named after Mount of the Holy Cross
even though the two are a considerable distance apart. The Mount of the Holy Cross was first
believed to be a prospector’s tale. It
was described as a cross of snow carved into the side of a mountain and as huge
as the mountain itself, but the claims were hard to prove. The cross is only visible for a few weeks in
the spring of each year. By the time the
prospector who saw it could bring anyone back to witness his claim, the cross
was gone and in some cases the prospector couldn’t even be sure which mountain
it was on.
A legend began to grow about the Holy Cross and stories were
told that anyone who mined within view of it was certain to die. Perhaps that’s why Holy Cross City was built
far from the nearest view of the Holy Cross.
In 1929, Mount of the Holy Cross was designated a National
Monument but that designation has since been withdrawn. The bars of the cross are 450 feet across and
1,400 feet high. They are formed by
crevices in the face of the mountain that are said to be about sixty feet
deep. The snow in those crevices is the
last to melt, so once the other snow is melted, the cross is formed. The best view is from the Shrine Pass Road
which branches off Vail Pass at the Summit Rest Area on I-70. The only time of year to see the cross of
snow is early spring after the snow around the cross is gone, but before the
snow within the crevices forming the cross has melted.
You will find the Holy Cross City Trail in Volume Seven of
the Adventures of Pass Patrol
Happy Trails!
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